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Despite some views to the contrary, winter is a great time to visit the Amalfi coast. Today was a perfect example of why – I was fortunate enough to get a private tour of the Museo Archeologico Romano Positano – no other pesky tourists to get in the way and I got to ask as many questions as I liked!
Located in Positano, beneath the Chiesa di S.S. Maria Assunta, lies the most fascinating, historical and cultural treasure: Villa Romana (La Villa D’ozio).
A little background
Just as it is today, the area around the Gulf of Naples and Sorrentine Peninsula, with its natural beauty and amazing climate, has long been a favourite holiday destination of the elite. The Roman elite, were no exception, building many luxury holiday residences here, with beautiful gardens and richly decorated rooms. Villa Romana is one such home.
The Eruption of Vesuvius 79 AD:
Despite popular belief, many parts of the Amalfi coast were also affected by the eruption of Vesuvius – not just Pompeii. This is despite protection from the nearby Lattari Hills. About 2m of pumice and ash fell over the Positano Marina. Excavations at the villa, reveal that a thin layer of ash first fell onto the residence, followed by about 2m of pumice. Fast moving mudslides, also reached the villa, filling its rooms and causing the structure to collapse. Extremely powerful, the flow caused the lower part of the eastern wall to be displaced by 40cm. The western wall was destroyed. At the time of the eruption, the villa was undergoing restorations and an expansion. This was due in part, to the damage it sustained by an earthquake in 62 AD. This is evidenced by the remains of scaffolding, a saw, and other tools found during the excavations.
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There are 4 characteristic and chronological styles of Roman wall painting. The fresco uncovered in the Roman Villa belongs to the 4th style and is associated with the middle of the 1st Century AD.
Typically the wall is divided into 3 horizontal sections: upper, central and lower. In the central section, large panels embellished with medallions of mythological scenes and garlands are alternated with trompe-l’oeil architectural details.
The upper section is characteristically decorated with aedicules (small temple-like structures) painted in perspective and enriched with floral and fantastical elements. In the Roman Villa, these are partially hidden by a trompe-l’oeill curtain.
The technique used to paint the walls is called “fresco” – whereby freshly laid plaster is painted with pigments, producing a durable, polished finish.
The crypts
The first part of the tour takes you to the upper crypt, which is located beneath the oratory of the upper church. It consists of a rectangular main hall with a barrel vaulted ceiling. Lining the walls are 69 lined brick seats called strainers. These were used to desiccate the dead. There is a sombre but simple beauty in their structure.
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Transparent stairs in the centre of the hall lead you down into the triclinium of the Roman Villa – 11m beneath the Mother church. It is here you get to see the beauty of the fresco walls and to reflect for a while as to what life may have been like for a Roman in Positano. The excavation works are extraordinary, uncovering fascinating layers of a cultural and historical past.
Three squared passages along one side of the main hall are also lined with strainers. These lead to another smaller rectangular hall, where many of the findings from the excavation are displayed. A collection of bones is of particular interest, each bone telling a story of the health of it’s owner. The display also features a collection of religious talismans and bronze kitchenware that was discovered in a cupboard that somehow remained intact during the eruption and elegant lead baskets used by the workmen of the day.
A more ancient cemeterial space is accessed from this hall. Mainly square in shape, it is located under the central nave of the church. A glimpse of a chandelier hanging in the church above, can be seen through the trapdoor located in the barrel vault. A deep well can be seen in its floor. The strainers here are situated on various levels and are of a simple unfinished brick construction.
Medieval crypt:
The tour then moves outside, to the rear of the church, where the entrance to the medieval crypt is located.
The medieval crypt is located directly under the presbytery of the Upper church, its purpose unclear, due to the many transformations it has undergone. Constructed with two naves, it is covered by barrel vaults which are separated by arches. The columns here are marble but of different designs. 2 have been incorporated into the stone pillars which support the cupola of the church.
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A small apse, covered by 2 small cross vaults, is located on the eastern wall. A trapdoor can be seen in the vaults above. Strainers line the walls.
A narrow staircase near the northern wall, provides access to the church above. This can be seen if you visit the church – a piano covers part of it! A small, very faint painting can be seen on the northern wall.
The tour ends at this point – a fascinating peek at life in Roman times: the violence and destruction of Vesuvius – I loved it! The exhibition is really well thought out and user friendly. The transparent suspended walkways and stairs are designed to allow for unobstructed viewing. Disabled access is also available.
Visitor Information
Opening hours: From April 11th: 9.00am to 9.00pm From Nov 1st: 10.00am to 4.00pm
Cost: 15 euro per person (card only – no cash taken)
Book online: https://marpositano.it/en/ticket/
Duration: 30 minutes
Groups: max 10 people per group
Attire: The exhibition is climatically controlled – 17° C – wear appropriate clothing and footwear
Photography: Flash photography is not permitted
How to get to Positano? A detailed guide on getting around the Amalfi Coast can be found here.
Note: the map and most of the historical information here have been sourced from https://marpositano.it/en/
All photos are mine.
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